Po Toi Island
One’s love of nature should have no bounds. If I am to choose the one thing that I love about Hong Kong, it will have to be the balance, or at least, co-existence between concretes and nature. The mighty mountains stand proud behind the tall and intimidating skyscrapers. The Po Toi island is one very good example of this mix.
Another gem of a destination hidden from the hustle and bustle of the city, yet still accessible for a quick day tour is the Po Toi Island. Po Toi Island is located in the southern most part of Hong Kong. It features geographical eye-candies offering a panoramic mix of the grass, the granite, big boulders, the waters and the sky. It also has a cliff-view to die for (no pun intended). There are different rock carvings and formations all overlooking the South China Sea (or not, lol).
I would not have known this place if not for some acquaintances. They went here one weekend and posted pictures with this very pleasing backdrop which is the Po Toi island. It’s actually a group of islands in the south of Hong Kong. Po Toi is the best known out of all these islands. Some sites call it the “South pole of Hong Kong”.
How to get there:
There are two places where you can hop in a kai-to (water taxi) going to Po Toi Island. One in Aberdeen and the other one in Stanley. On my two visits, I’ve always gone to Po Toi via the Stanley pier. This is because Stanley is a view on its own – I’ll probably write a full blog about it.
There are a few routes from the Hong Kong Island going to Stanley, you can ride bus number 6, 6A, 6X, 66 or 260 to Stanley Plaza, from there, the Pier to Po Toi is just opposite the Murray House (now H&M).
Ferry schedules are limited to the following time slots. There are some people who bring tents and stay in the island overnight. If you don’t intend to stay overnight or don’t want to be stranded, I suggest you follow the schedule. The island is rural without a variety of options to get in and out of.
The fare is 25HKD for non-residents and roundtrip tickets may be required if you take the morning schedules. They only accept cash so be sure you have. The ferry ride is about an hour , if not less than, going to Po Toi Island.
What to see:
Tin Hau Temple: We started wandering on the left side of the island to the Tin Hau Temple. It’s a short walk from the Pier to where the temple stands facing the Tai Wan Bay. There’s also this staircase leading you down to the bay.
The Conch Rock: At the side of the Tin Hau temple lies not bad a view as well. It’s an open space of rocks featuring the Conch rock, one which Po Toi is known for. Though best seen while afloat, the peeking top viewed from its side is a pretty sight as well.
Mo’s Old House: Another feature that adds to the beauty of the island are the beaten down buildings and houses you will find along the way. Ironic as it may sound, the old structures and trees add a certain level of eeriness to Po Toi Island that is just as captivating. In this light, there’s this known old house called “Mo’s Old House” in the island that is said to be haunted. We tried looking for it but not sure if we even found it. We basically did not know what we were looking for. On our way though, I found this lake radiating with “Anaconda Movie” level vibes :).
The way to the hills and cliffs was a bit tricky when we first went there. There were signs in Chinese that we couldn’t make out of. It’s basically up the stairs on your way back to the pier. Atop, there’s a restaurant for refreshments the path to the right will lead you to the grassy hills and trails. You will need to pass by the restaurant, btw.
Rock Carvings: First to see aside from the beautiful bay and luscious mixture of blue and green are the rock carvings said to be more than a thousand years old. The carvings are not as deep as you would imagine, but it’s there, probably due to erosion.
Following the trail will lead you uphill to more greens, rocks and cliffs. The place will feed and flood you with sceneries you would have never thought existed Hong Kong. It’s a definite far cry from the loud, busy, and sometimes smoggy city center – a sure feast in the eyes.
Uphill is a small pavilion overlooking yet another wonderful view. In here we found a few travelers with tents set-up and ready for a probably starry view of a night – not common in Hong Kong in the years I’ve stayed here.
The Supine Monk: Ahead you’ll see one of the popular rock formations in the island. You will not miss it since there’s a sign pointing you right to the Monk Rock.
Beside the Monk are huge boulders, supposed to be looking like a turtle that we couldn’t make out of so we just took pictures in one of the rocks the gives an open view of the Tai Wan Bay.
The Turtle Rock: Just beside the Monk rock is the Turtle rock, up close I couldn’t figure out what it was. It was only when we moved farther up and when I looked back to capture the view did I notice the figure of the tortoise seemingly climbing up the mountain.
Lighthouse 126: Next to the monk and turtle rocks is the Lighthouse 126, also known as the Nam Kok Tsui Lighthouse. It’s still active in emitting light and serving as a navigational aid to hundreds of boats passing by the group of Islands. The lighthouse is not the usual lighthouse you see on pictures and movies. It’s quadrilateral in shape and low compared to the others, but then again, it is situated at the highest point of the island facing the bay.
From here, everything goes downhill, of course not figuratively as Po Toi is consistently wonderful all the way. There are a few other sets of boulders and cliffs along the way.
The Palm Cliff: Farther down you’ll not miss these rocks formed in the shape of a hand called Palm Cliff or The Palm of Buddha. I think almost all photos of travelers going to Po Toi island has a version of this rock formation. It’s one of the features Po Toi is recognized for.
There’s this really nice spot to take pictures of the Palm Cliff not too far from the actual location if you’re with someone and wanted to take photos. A word of precaution though if you to stand on the rocks, it’s pretty dangerous since it is, after all, a cliff – a high one may I add. Don’t go crazy trying to get the perfect shot – the “tita” (auntie) in me talking lol.
Heading straight from the Palm cliff will lead you back to the trail where you came from. From there, re-trace your steps back to the pier. If I’m not mistaken, there are tombs on the side of the hill on your way back as can be slightly seen on one of my photos above.
There are also restaurants at the foot of the trail that are apparently known to serve really good dishes. We finished the hike late and just in time for the last boat leaving Po Toi Island so we never really got to try the food. Didn’t also get to try on my second visit.
Thoughts:
To most, Hong Kong is nothing but skyscrapers and neon lights, but there’s certainly a lot more to see behind the tiring facade. A sort of a way out/ a timeout to the fast-paced life of the city. A toned down, less intense and more relaxed version of Hong Kong not everyone can see and appreciate.
“If the sight of the blue skies fills you with joy, if a blade of grass springing up in the fields has power to move you, if the simple things of nature have a message that you understand, rejoice, for your soul is alive.”
– Eleonora Duse
